Відео

pointing out the umatic ringing whenever you see feels a bit like pointing out tube/valve based cameras (as opposed to CCD sensor based) 😄... that distinctive streaking of bright objects (think studio lights, or bright reflections from mic stands etc) when panning the camera, often (but not always) with a red afterglow/ghost. very common in music videos from the 70s and into the 80s

It is cheap, but quite poor. Input protection is not even mentioned. I would not even try to measure anything higher than, say, 40-50V, and I would not have USB connected if the input is higher than a few volts (unless the inputs are isolated, which I doubt). Well, perhaps, I would not even bother with such a toy. I would use something like good old Fluke 97 or 99.

Are the inputs isolated from the USB and from each other?

Great demonstration video. 🙂👍

i found your video because i have an a250 that has the blinking red led on power up. was hoping to see if i could fix it. im in LA but if i cant get it to "fix itself" lol id likely part with it. if you see this, let me know if you're interested in it.

I have had nothing but trouble trying to get the SIP.conf file to let me get a virtual Phone Line that was initially to make sure that my SKY HD Plus STB would continue to function as Intended as well as a phone connection for Her Indoor but they would not let us have the required file.

Thanks again for another great video!

For $100 type pricing it sure has amazing capability. Funny - as I watched I was thinking of the old Knight 5Mhz scope I got at a flea market as a teenager and at the end you showing your old scope - well you pretty much said what I was thinking. Besides as a first scope for a hobbyist, it would also be great for labs and demos in universities.

Do they still use Optical Epoxy Resin for joining fibres or do they use heat to fuse the fibres together.

Why didn't they use Future-Fibre and there wouldn't be a problem.

I have my Broadband connection from the Telegraph Pole to the house then around the side of the house to come into my bedroom via a very small hole then around some form of box don't know what it is then onto a NOKIA ONT doesn't have a phone socket.

Has Her In Doors said no more wires.

Just got a VO-1600. The erase and audio heads show no sign of wear. This is to recover some U-Matic tapes of local Santa Cruz bands I helped make back in the early 80's on a similar deck. Great video. Thanks!

Wait -short why??? I regularly refer people to video99couk. If just 1 -2 people out of my shops references lead to actual bizz?

Digital-S cartridges are very similar to W-VHS, a high-definition analog component video format with PCM digital sound. It could be seen as a digital version of the former. W-VHS was actually a very good format, comparable to professional analog formats which were common at the time but in considerably higher resolution (1035 line interlaced), and was sold in a limited extent on the professional market in the US.

What is the main difference between hs1000 and ag-4700?

Is DVCPRO-HD the same as DVCPRO-50?

I was at the NAB Show in about 1995 I think when that was released. Very vague memory but I think there was an SDI output on some decks. There was also a dockable back for ENG. The D9 HD version at 100Mbps came later - too late.. Very little take-up and not many people even bothered to go take a look. At the same show was the Ikegami CamCutter camcorder. That was truly revolutionary, recording straight to hard drives and having in camera cuts based editing in the field. It was ferociously expensive and looked a bit chunky.. If you don't have one of them already it'd be a huge score to get your hands on one.

can this be done with a cheap IDE/SATA to USB converter?

Bonus geeky fact about these: the DV format actually supported four audio tracks (recorded at 32k; if you chose two tracks, you got the full 48k). When they went to HDV, the four tracks went bye bye, and you just had stereo

Let me give you the skinny on why JVC did what it did. If you liked Standard Definition, the DV25 format did a superb job of capturing stuff. Because everyone liked the small DV tapes, and had been shooting with them since the early 90s, they decided to go with an MPEG2 wrapper HD format that could even be sent down IEEE 1394 (FireWire). The upshot was 1080i HDV. The problem was that these early 1080i cameras had a lot of compression artifacts because the two fields per frame thing really worked to the detriment of capturing moving images, especially anything with wheels. So JVC said, "Hey, we'll come up with a progressive format in MPEG2, and voila! far less "judder" (the coinage from shudder mixed with jitter). So in some ways, the 720p was better than the 1080i.

wow you guys are real pros, white glove workmanship

Thank you so much. As a complete novice, I ordered a power supply and copied your actions on an old sony ccd-fx420 camccorder and retrieved a long-lost stuck tape of my 2nd birthday to get digitized!

I recently acquired a VHS-C Camcorder for cheap (A JVC GR-AXM18u), and after doing some research on it, it's a model that was manufactured and sold as early as 2006. I never used Video 8 before apart from one time when I was pretty young (or any camcorders for that matter apart from the one I recently got), but I'm convinced by this video that Video 8 had the clear advantage over VHS-C in every aspect. Though, I'm curious about VHS-C. What made VHS-C hold on for just as long as Video 8 if it had so many drawbacks? Was it just brand recognition? Were VHS-C tapes and camcorders cheaper than Video 8? Were people just that convinced on being able to playback their films on their VCRs?

Pinnacle? I usually use a simple program HDVSplit that already outputs video file including audio tracks. I use Vegas, it supports both DV and HDV files. Maybe you could install some plugins in Resolve to open the videos.

That Digibeta camera looks like it's been through a war.

I wonder if Panasonic DVCPRO-HD decks would play that format back, there is a DVCPRO-HD 720P/24. One client used it at one of their facilities for about a year or so. the DVCPRO-HD decks will let you know that it's 720P/24 and convert it to 1080i, if you want 720P you have to switch settings in the deck.

I ended up buying another one of these, the original DVW-700. It threads up and unthreads but eats the tape. It's because the capstan motor does not turn during unthreading. I know that the capstan is supposed to drive a belt going to the take up and supply reels and it rotates during eject. The belt is there but I can't get it to drive the take up reel. I managed to get the unit go into record mode and the capstan does rotate, but during unthreading it doesn't move at all. Does this mean it's an electrical or mechanical issue?

Glad to see there's another Ferograph Super Seven owner...did you feature this in one of your Videos?

hi again there are alot of working used Capture cards on the market now i need one to record of a betacam it a mind find now i know what all the in out do what is the best on the used market place now so many are using them for gaming not me just asking what you think as i don't have the space in the rig for isd recorder card in the computer

If your back focus (flange focal length) is that far off from the indicated position (the f f sticker) then you have a big problem or that lens is not the correct type for that mount. I couldn't see which lens you have, but I'd guess that camera is a 1/3 inch sensor size which is normally a very different flange focal length, even if it used a B4 mount. You also need to be careful with the lens type, the green ring says it was HD compatible, pretty sure the green printing is the same. The older standard def. lenses were a lot more sloppy about how well they controlled the focus point.

I love looking at this old stuff from a nostalgia point of view, but my phone can take a better video. Try Black super glue. Its expensive but very strong.

Hola. Lo pongo en castellano porque quiero expresarme bien y ayudar. Mi problema era el mismo, idéntico error. Tengo un Asus TUF Gaming B450M-PRO con 64 GB de RAM Corsair a 2133Mhz, RTX 3060 12GB con Ryzen 7 2700X. He comprado un Ryzen 9 5900X y al sustituirlo e iniciar Windows me daba error WHAR UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR, si nada más de explicación. NO ha sido problema de hardware, ni de drivers, ni de windows, ni de nada, es simplemente una inestabilidad en estos procesadores con diversas placas Mothers. Hasta he probado cambiando las Memorias, Disco duro M2 y nueva instalación, recibiendo siempre el mismo error. La solución, que lo he visto en dos o tres foros, nada más, es quitar la opción PRECISION BOOST OVERDRIVE, dejarla en DISABLE. Explico como llegué hasta el PBO (precision boost overdrive): Dejo enlace en AMD donde facilito las imágenes community.amd.com/t5/processors/whea-errors-on-ryzen-5900x/m-p/475263#M41398 He conseguido también que la temperatura se mantenga en 60 grados.

I was offered the same equipment about a decade ago, and had no qualms at not keeping it. It's not broadcast spec, it's just industrial equipment. Had no genlock input, RCA video connectors... As you discovered, it's an almost unique recording format (tape-wise). And the unusualness of 720p meant it almost always had to be converted. The camera is from before the days of people watching playback from a file on a drive. They used paired CCDs to achieve the resolution, the left side of the image has a separate sensor than the right, and if not aligned fantastically well, you can see a line running down the dead centre of the image and brightness/contrast differences either side of it. It was glaringly obvious in the camera I was offered. The Firewire ports are frequently wrecked. Firstly there's the obvious and repairable mechanical damage from the connectors getting knocked, and having lots of use. Secondly, the electronics get zapped when people connect them when running from an ungrounded switchmode power supply that floats at a few hundred volts (this eventually does damage). You can see sparks fly when you plug them together at times. People used to wreck the output stages of compact disc players doing the same thing - patching ungrounded and grounded gear's signal leads together after plugging them into the mains, and RCAs often contacted the pins together before the shield. Sometimes you *do* have to plug Firewire gear in while powered and running, as some (seriously stupid) computer equipment would never see a Firewire device as being there if you turned the power on after it was plugged in. And the same systems needing frequent unplugging/replugging to see devices that disappear. My simplistic solution to that problem was *BEFOREHAND* always ensuring that some grounded lead (such as an audio or monitor lead) was connected, and it has to be something that *is* grounded, or a shared common between the two equipment you're patching the Firewire lead between. The camera and VCR deck I was offered both had zapped Firewire electronics, leaving only analogue capture as an option. When parts *were* still available, as a whole board swap, it was around a $1000 repair. For what it's worth, to set back focus the best way, you really want to use something in the very far distance at infinity focus, with the iris wide open (use the high-speed shutter and gain to avoid over-blown video). Don't film through a window, the window glass can affect focus. If you just do it indoors you might find backfocus was always wrong when you went outside. While focus charts help (you can find PDFs on-line and get a print shop to make an A3 print of them), trees in the distance, football towers, streetlight poles, all work quite well. I'd try something like a hose-clamp completely around the lens barrel, spanning across the backfocus ring and an adjacent non-rotating ring on the lens.

Unfortunately, the device cannot do FM stereo

I remember using one of those CVC machines at school in the mid 80s -and it was old hat then. The camera was dreadful in low light like you said and suffered from trails with bright lights. I think I still have a school project I filmed on one transferred to vhs. The image quality was pretty poor even by mid 80s standards if I recall.

It was super popular at small city’s local cable TV channels, as a local advertising and NGO camera. Cheap, nobody noticed the difference on analog TV set-top box combo, and had a kinda compressed color and dynamic range, perfect for recording anything without light setup. Like coffee shops, hotel lobbies, train stations, etc.

Thanks for sharing this. Frustrating that the two HDV formats were not compatible. The industry has a history of shooting itself in the foot with format wars, especially when it comes to Sony and JVC. But in this case, the HDV format was only a stop gap before tapeless became a thing.

would a flexible pcb from say jlcpcb work to replace the cable?

Video99 shows us more of his relic junk 🗑️👎

At 7:37 isn't that the same type of cap that went leaky in that previous troubleshooting video?

It seems that there's small flats outside of the screw hole in that cracked ring. So it would be possible to machine a small washer/bracket/dunnowhatyoushouldcallit that keeps the ring in one piece when locking screw is tightened with sane torque. I know, I know, pointless, as best fix is the one that got the propblem solved. edit: on the ribbon cable repair - I've pulled that stunt once. Years ago with a dremel and some sort of rubber bit. I've tried many times since and never had any luck. Maybe the cables are older than they used to be and/or I'm more clumsy than I used to be.

Yes you were being fussy about the dust .. I used to install .. fiber is not that delicate even if it’s dirty it can be cleaned

could you epoxy a square 5m washer/nut, those thin ones you get? over the original space. or maybe a jubilee strap you coud screw on and off; over the ring. Not pretty but might work.

this is not a DTF problem this is a pinch roller problem (bad Audio and at the outrun of the heads [bottom the pictures the noise field]) [but the bad news there are no pinchroller anymore available] - Then during you start up the machine there are some non known interruptions! this happend from the oxidation on all Regulators left side on the backside. Cut all the wires and solder it to the Regulators.

For the focus ring, would a large jubilee clip with a hole drilled in it be a solution, or 2 thin cable ties (either side of the lock screw)?

These cameras had problems with their image sensors. Firstly, they got hot and there is a fan, secondly - unlike larger Sony cameras, the sensor itself was only glued to the prism, even though the design also has holes for mounting screws. As a result, I saw several such cameras with sensors detached or damaged. Not very pro equipment.

I know someone who has a similar JVC HDV model. He demonstrated it to me a couple of years ago. To be honest I wasn't very impressed by the picture quality compared to my Sony HDV camera. The form factor looks nice though. It looks like it would be a lot easier to carry around than a full size DVCAM/Betacam model.

When JVC introduced the GR-HD1 in 2003, they decided "Europe isn't ready for HD yet" so they released a version of it in Europe called the GR-PD1, which had the same image sensor as the HD1 but only recorded standard-definition 720x576 video, not 1280x720, at 25 progressive frames per second (25p). But it still used the MPEG2 codec just like the 720p HDV model, except if you switched it into DV compatibility mode.

Try using a thin strip of brass, drill a hole in it to allow access to the hole, and put it over and farther across the top and glue it down.